Los Abaqulunqi baseDatshi uViktor & Rolf, ngaphezu kwamashumi amathathu eminyaka, baye bachaza ngokutsha imida yoyilo lwefashoni. Le duo yomfanekiso izakhele igama esomeleleyo enkosi ngokukwazi kwabo ukusungula izinto ezintsha kunye nokucela umngeni kwizithethe eziqhelekileyo. Baye bazuza ukudibanisa okukhethekileyo phakathi kobugcisa kunye nefashoni, bazibeka njengenyaniso ye-avant-garde kwishishini.
Iziqalo kunye neFilosofi yokuYila kaViktor & Rolf
UViktor Horsting kunye noRolf Snoeren badibana ngelixa befunda uyilo kwindawo edumileyo Arnhem School of Design. Ukususela ekuqaleni, babelane ngombono wobugcisa obakhokelela ekubeni basebenzisane ngobungcali. Ngeminyaka yoo-'90s, baseka ileyibhile yabo e-Paris, bephawula uhambo lwabo lokuqala oluphambili kumboniso wefashoni yehlabathi.
Umsebenzi wokuqala kaViktor & Rolf wawusoloko uboniswa kwiigalari zobugcisa, uphakamisa imibuzo malunga nokuba babengamagcisa okanye abayili. Yakhe ifilosofi yokudala isekelwe ekugqityweni kwemida: uyilo ngalunye lufuna ukuba yintetho enesibindi edlula iingubo eziqhelekileyo.
Haute Couture njengeLebhu yoMvavanyo
ukuba UViktor kunye noRolf, i-haute couture ingaphezulu lee kunecandelo lobunewunewu; “Yilabhoratri yovavanyo loyilo.” Ukusukela ukuvela kwabo okokuqala kwiVeki yeHaute Couture ngo-1998, ingqokelela yabo iye yachasana nolindelo kunye nezindululo ezinengqikelelo ezifana neelokhwe ezenziwe ngobuso okanye iimpahla ezijongeka ngathi ziphume kumzobo.
Omnye wemiboniso yakhe engalibalekiyo yenzeke ePalais de Tokyo, apho iimodeli zazinxiba amalaphu aqinileyo aphefumlelwe ngamalaphu obugcisa. I imibala kunye neepateni zavela ngexesha lokwenyani, ukuguqula indlela yeenqwelo-moya ibe yintsebenzo ephilayo eyenza mfiliba imida phakathi kwefashoni kunye nobugcisa.
Impembelelo kaViktor noRolf kwiFashoni yeHlabathi
Uyilo lukaViktor & Rolf lushiye a uphawu olungacimekiyo kwishishini enkosi indlela yayo avant-garde. Izambatho zabo azijongwa njengefashoni kuphela, kodwa imisebenzi yobugcisa eyiyo, kwaye iboniswe kwiimyuziyam zamazwe ngamazwe ezifana neKunsthal eRotterdam kunye neBarbican Gallery eLondon.
Ukongeza kwimiboniso yefashoni, baye baguqula ishishini ngokuzisazisa intsebenziswano ezinzileyo kunye neempawu ezifana neZalando, kwaye xa usebenza ngezinto ezinokuphinda zisetyenziswe okanye ezivundisiweyo. Ezi zenzo azibonisi nje ukuzibophelela kwayo kokusingqongileyo, kodwa zikwabeka uphawu njengophawu lwendlela yokuziphatha kunye nefashoni.
IiProjekthi eziqaphelekayo kunye neeNgqwalasela
Phakathi kwezona mpumelelo zibalulekileyo zikaViktor & Rolf livumba layo "Ibhombu yeentyatyambo", iphuhliswe ngentsebenziswano neL'Oréal. Esi siqholo sakhawuleza saba yimpumelelo yamazwe ngamazwe, sivumela uphawu ukuba luxhase uphando lwayo lobugcisa. Baye baphehlelela iiprojekthi ezinje ngoo “Dolls”, apho iintwana-ntwana zoyilo lwabo zazinxityiswe ngoonodoli abakhethekileyo, nto leyo ebenza badunyiswe kuluntu nakubugcisa kunye nabagxeki befashoni.
Enye intsebenziswano ephawulekayo yayikwicandelo labatshatileyo. Kwi-2004, baqulunqa ilokhwe yomtshato ka-Princess Mabel waseNetherlands, bazibeka njengabaqulunqi abathandayo kwiziganeko ezibalulekileyo. Umgca wakhe "Mariage" uyaqhubeka ukuba a Umbhekisi kubatshakazi abafuna iziqwenga ezizodwa kunye nezinto ezingaqhelekanga.
Ilifa likaViktor & Rolf
Ngaphezulu kweminyaka engama-30 kushishino, uViktor & Rolf babonakalise ukuba ifashoni inokuba sisithuthi sokubonakaliswa kobugcisa nenkcubeko. Baqhubeka nokusungula kunye nokucela umngeni kwimimiselo, ukukhusela indawo ekhethekileyo kwimbali yefashoni.
Oku kubini phakathi kobugcisa kunye nefashoni, kunye nokukwazi kwabo ukuzihlaziya rhoqo, kubeka uViktor & Rolf njengezalathisi ezingenakuphikiswa kwindawo yehlabathi. Ilifa labo liyaqhubeka nokukhuthaza isizukulwana esitsha sabaqulunqi kunye namagcisa abona kubo umzekelo we ubuchule obungenasiphelo.